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Dress for wedding

Chanel gowns and scruffy sweaters

[ شنبه 28 اسفند 1395 ] [ 10:34 ] [ neda ] [ ]

Chanel gowns and scruffy sweaters: The story behind Kristen Stewart's high-low look in Personal Shopper

It’s not often that a ghost story serves as a backdrop for some seriously chic fashion, but Personal Shopper, the new thriller starring Kristen Stewart, has just raised the bar. Stewart plays a personal shopper responsible for organising designer clothes and jewellery for a celebrity client. Though her character, Maureen, lives in jumpers and jeans, her glamorous job involves dealing with treasures from Chanel and Cartier - which, one imagines, is not a huge leap from the actress’s real life.

Costume designer Juergen Doering was responsible for the wardrobe, and worked with director Olivier Assayas and the cast to piece together his own impression of how it should look. “First I read the script and I asked Olivier to tell me in three adjectives what he thinks about each character,” explains Doering. “Then I looked at the cast - so I led with the character first and the person second. Then I went to the actors and, without telling them what the director had said, I asked ‘How did you get this part and how do you see it?’ Because Olivier likes for people to feel the character and feel the clothes.”

There’s a noticeable difference between Maureen’s day-to-day clothing and the more elevated style of her boss. “We were thinking that Maureen’s American, she’s in Paris, she’s wearing jeans, she’s a little bit rugged - sneakers, vintage, sweaters,” says Doering. “I looked at some vintage Fruit of the Loom sweaters at a shop in Paris, and was looking for things that you could believe a girl like this had picked at the flea market. The flying jacket in brown leather, very manly, for when she’s always on the bike - a young person will try things.”

As the film progresses - spoiler alert - Maureen sneakily borrows and wears some of her client’s designer pieces, including a Vionnet organza gown with a harness, something that was specifically requested by Assayas. “I was looking in all the couture collections for a harness dress,” says Doering. “The director said ‘Maybe it’s a harness over a dress, or maybe it’s part of the dress.’ In the end I saw it at Vionnet and Olivier liked it immediately. We chose black because there is something ambiguous about her personality: she says she hates the job shea is doing and the girl she is picking the things for, but when she comes to desire men, she wants to be that woman she hates.”

Maureen also borrows a silver sequinned Chanel dress. As Stewart has fronted several Chanel campaigns, it was no surprise to see the fashion house popping up in her movie - though Doering says there was no contractual obligation involved. “We know the team at Chanel well, but if we didn’t find what we wanted, we had no pressure,” he says. “I asked the girls there, ‘Do you have something with sequins?’ and they said ‘Oh we have this old dress that no one has worn before.’ And I saw it and I thought ‘Oh, this is it.’” It may be the only time you’ll see Stewart in a Chanel dress that doesn’t fit like a glove: “Of course we didn’t fit it onto Kristen, because it is not supposed to be her own dress. She feels uncomfortable in the dress, it’s not hers - but she likes it because it’s not correct for her to wear it.”

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Dr. Martens Slaps Steven Madden

[ سه شنبه 24 اسفند 1395 ] [ 10:07 ] [ neda ] [ ]

Dr. Martens Slaps Steven Madden With Lawsuit in "Exceptional Case" of Copying

Notorious copycat Steve Madden is at it again. The New York-based brand has been slapped with a trade dress infringement lawsuit from AirWair International, a subsidiary of Dr. Martens footwear (“Dr. Martens”), for “knowingly and intentionally” copying one its best selling shoe designs. According to United Kingdom-based Dr. Marten’s complaint, which was filed in the U.S. District court in the Northern District of California, Steve Madden is producing footwear that is “substantially identical” to the well-known Dr. Marten’s 1460 Boot.

Dr. Martens – which describes itself not only as “widely recognized and extremely popular” but also as a brand that has “achieved recognition as ranking among the world’s greatest and most recognizable brands” – alleges that Steve Madden is making very specific and blatant use of its 1460 Boot trade dress. The supposedly infringing footwear “unlawfully copies and uses the Dr. Martens trade dress and distinctive features of Dr. Martens footwear, including the two tone grooved sole edge, DMS undersold, and heel loop.”

For the uninitiated, trade dress is a type of trademark protection that extends to the overall commercial image of a product that indicates or identifies the source of the product and therefore, distinguishes it from others. This can include the design of a product, as well as the shape or configuration of a product.

Dr. Martens specifically claims that similarity between its shoes and Madden’s is no coincidence. Instead, Dr. Martens alleges that “this is an ‘exceptional case’ of infringement … because Steve Madden knowingly and intentionally copied Dr. Martens trade dress.” As a result, the alleged copying is “likely to cause confusion, or to cause mistake, or to deceive.”

The company further alleges that Steve Madden “acted with knowledge of the fame and reputation of the Dr. Martens trade dress with the purpose to … willfully and intentionally confuse, mislead, and deceive members of the public.” The complaint additionally says that consumers not only are at risk for confusion, but that “Steve Madden’s offering for sale of the infringing footwear … has caused confusion” already.

In addition to a likelihood of confusion, Steve Madden’s allegedly infringing products are “likely to dilute, blur, and tarnish the distinctive quality of the Dr. Martens trade dress, and lessen to capacity of the Dr. Martens trade dress to identify and distinguish the company’s product.” The complaint goes on to state that Steve Madden “had no right to use the Dr. Marten trade dress … and promotion of the infringing footwear in the United States is without authorization of consent from [Dr. Martens].”

Still yet, Dr. Martens goes on to state that “Steve Madden’s conduct in copying the Dr. Martens trade dress has been systematic and deliberate. Steve Madden has copied the Dr. Martens trade dress, and the overall style and configuration of Dr. Martens boots and shoes in a deliberate and calculated attempt to trade upon the popularity and distinctive appearance and design of Dr. Martens footwear.”

As a result, Dr. Martens – which has set forth claims for trade dress infringement, unfair competition and false designation of origin, and federal trademark dilution – is seeking both preliminary and permanent injunctive relief, the removal of all advertisements of said infringing products, “an accounting of Defendants’ profits arising from [their] unfair competition and trademark infringement”, damages, attorneys fees, and any “other and further relief [the] court may deem just.”

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Why it's time to dust off anything gingham

[ سه شنبه 17 اسفند 1395 ] [ 9:26 ] [ neda ] [ ]

Why it's time to dust off anything gingham - and the best new checks to buy now

The only real no-no that I can advise when it comes to wearing gingham, is to avoid Carluccio’s. The Italian chain does not go so far as to have a cliche green check cloth in place on every table, but its waitstaff do wear a monochrome grid shirt as standard. They are now, incidentally, all looking rather chic, as gingham has regained the high fashion status it once held in the 1960s and 1990s, and is now the material to revisit in your wardrobe for spring.

Gingham was originally a striped fabric, imported from India in the seventeenth century. Before long Manchester mills cottoned onto its popularity, turned it into checks and made it a British staple. Its simple construction (plain weave, poplin) made it a cheap solution for wartime housewives looking to recreate the era’s flourished silhouettes on a coupon allowance, before London’s fashion rebels adopted it and destroyed its primness in the 1960s.

Airy blouses and smart dresses lead the check’s SS17 return, but on the catwalks gingham has been revived in every incarnation - which means anything you already own (coats, bags, shoes, the works) now gets the chequered flag to go again.

“Designers have taken out the prettiness; gingham has become a lot more grown up,” says Lisa Aiken, Retail Fashion Director at Net-A-Porter, who cites Altuzarra’s high waisted pencil skirts and A.W.A.K.E.’s occasionwear as some of her favourite high-end efforts. “We are seeing it as the new stripe as it’s universal and easy to style.”

On the high street New Look is perhaps a surprise leader of the fabric’s sophisticated renaissance and has developed an entire capsule collection in devotion. “We saw gingham dominating the street style trends captured outside the shows in Milan and Paris,” says Catherine Thomas, Head of Womenswear Design. “Sleeve details are huge with lots of new shapes to carry you through the season - trumpet sleeved blouses for spring, then into more summery styles like off-the-shoulder dresses. It can be dressed up or dressed down.”

Adding interest with embroideries over gingham, contrasting check colours or playing on the billowing proportions that the loose cotton causes, is all part of the fun. Tuck your gingham blouse into a pencil skirt for drinks tonight, or style it with light blue jeans and block-heel shoes for Saturday lunch.

“I would balance a gingham blouse with anything utility themed,” offers Aiken. “It’s a subtle alternative for those who are reluctant to bold prints and florals. Gingham adds interest to an outfit without feeling overpowering.”

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Sustainable shopping

[ پنجشنبه 12 اسفند 1395 ] [ 11:28 ] [ neda ] [ ]
Have you heard the one about the unregulated azo dyes in your clothes that act as hormone disruptors? How about the known carcinogens used to tan the leather in your new shoes? Or the fact that your bargain jeans were possibly made by a child in Bangladesh? Doesn't feel like such a bargain now, eh?

When I tell a fashion horror story, the most common response is, "But what can we do?" No one wants to feel guilty and powerless. Luckily, there's an app for that.

Good On You is a conscious shopping app, free to download, that rates brands according to their ethical performance when it comes to people, planet and animals.

Find yourself dithering over a new bomber jacket at the mall, and you can tap in the brand name to find out how it performs. Country Road, for example, has "strong labour policies and prohibits use of hazardous dyes". Its rating of 4 out 5 is "good". Sportsgirl, on the other hand, is "not good enough" – it gets 2 out of 5 because it "does not communicate enough about its environmental policies and practices".

This is entry level stuff (you can always dig deeper) but I love Good on You because it empowers consumers to make more informed choices in a simple, user-friendly way.

Brands don't pay to be included, and Good on You doesn't take a percentage of sales. It's run as a non-profit (parent company Ethical Consumers Australia is a registered charity). They've attracted more than 35,000 active users since the Australian launch 15 months ago. In August they rolled out in New Zealand, and just before Christmas they ran a crowdfunded campaign to take on the US. Good On You launches in North America Wednesday March 1 (Thursday March 2 in Australia).

"People did ask me if now is the right time to go into the States," laughs co-founder Sandra Capponi, who clearly thrives on having too much to do. "We're Australian but we have a big mission: to make the global fashion industry more sustainable. To do that you have to scale."

The US market is similar to the Australian one in that "they want to do the right thing," she says. "[According to Mintel research] 50 per cent of North Americans would shop more ethically if presented with the choice." The current political climate helps. From women's marches to activism on the catwalk, issues like climate change and inequality are front of mind even in the fashion world, one that's so often dismissed as frivolous. "In a number of countries around the world right now we're seeing large numbers question the system and the status quo," says Capponi. "People want to know what's going on behind the scenes."

Until recently, that was in the too-hard basket when it came to ordinary folks shopping for clothes. Who has time to sift through brands' sustainability reports and try to untangle their complex supply chains? And where is the fun in that? I'm not being glib: clothes shopping is meant to be enjoyable. Once it starts to feel like school homework, you've lost us. That's why previous fashion app success stories have tended towards things like Chic Sketch, which turns your selfies into fashion illustrations and Villoid - the Alexa Chung endorsed Polyvore competitor with its amusing outfit styling tool.

"Oh yes," says Capponi, "it has to be feel-good to gain traction." But the appeal of Good on You is about more than that. "It's really about power. What we're saying is: you can make a difference and this is how."

A new wave of apps tapping into that very real yearning we have to take back control. In the US, the Buycott app invites users to choose from a list of campaigns that align with their values – to rule out Trump products, for example, or avoid sweatshop labour. Some magic then allows users to scan product barcodes with their phones to find out which ones live up to their standards. I've no idea how it works, but I love it, don't you?

"Technology is the great enabler," says Sydney-sider Seb Berry, who is currently crowdfunding his own conscious consumerism app. Watching 2006's climate change film An Inconvenient Truth and dating a Greenpeace activist started Berry on this journey. "I wondered why people don't do more, then I turned that back on myself and realised that the big problems are simply too overwhelming. That's why we've relied on governments, lawmakers and companies to make change. But there are so many people on this planet, personal impact does matter. What I do every day, the small stuff, moves up the chain. I think we are seeing a broad realisation there: I am part of the problem so I am part of the solution."

If he can raise the funds Berry's Today app will present greener choices around daily habits. "We're all about how the small changes can add up to a major difference," he says, "so for example, your morning coffee: we will point you to Frank Green or KeepCup and organic coffee in your area. We'll link you to sustainable options for everything from food to transport to energy, to how you can set up a community garden." From little things big things grow.

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Paris show traces kimono from prim tradition to glam fashion

[ جمعه 6 اسفند 1395 ] [ 10:11 ] [ neda ] [ ]
While the once ubiquitous garment is now reserved for special occasions and official events in its homeland, it has inspired the likes of Jean Paul Gaultier and Dior’s John Galliano in the West’s fashion capitals.

Around 150 styles from the collection of Matsuzakaya – the centuries-old Japanese fashion house that became a department store – are on display abroad for the first time in the Guimet’s show, titled “Kimono, The Ladies’ Delight”.

The unique pieces, some of them dazzling works of art, reflect a range of sophistication and difficulty in fabrication.

Variations of the kimono first caught on in the West as part of a general fad for all things Japanese in the late 19th century when bourgeois ladies began wearing a casual version – without the restraining obi belt – around the house.

Then Parisian couturiers Paul Poiret and Madeleine Vionnet began experimenting with the kimono in the 1920s.

Fast forward to Japanese-French designer Kenzo Takada, two of whose creations dating from 2006 are in featured in the exhibit.

“It’s thanks to the kimono that I found my identity,” said Takada, the 77-year-old founder of the Kenzo luxury fashion house.

“When I opened my boutique (in Paris) in 1970, I told myself, I’m Japanese, I probably know kimonos and Japanese traditions better than French designers and I should take advantage of that,” Takada recalled.

“Before that I followed Parisian trends. I hadn’t thought of the kimono in fashion.”

French haute couture designer Franck Sorbier’s take on the kimono has been more ephemeral.

An organza piece evoking an evanescent white butterfly from his summer 2008 collection is in the Guimet exhibit along with pieces by Galliano and Gaultier.

“With its extra long sleeves and its train it has an imperial dimension,” Sorbier said.

The kimono adds instant elegance to an ensemble, he said. “Throw a kimono over a shirt, skinny jeans and heels and you’re dressed for a night out. No need for an evening gown.”

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Filipino Designers Happy Andrada and John Herrera

[ چهارشنبه 4 اسفند 1395 ] [ 11:10 ] [ neda ] [ ]

Filipino Designers Happy Andrada and John Herrera at LFW F/W 2017

The seamless transition of fashion week schedules from the Big Apple to the home of The Beatles might have left the chic crowd dizzy behind their Chanel frames. But for Filipino sartorial savants, London Fashion Week’s fall 2017 presentation gives us a reason to pay attention. This season, not one but two Filipino designers presented their collections. John Herrera and Happy Andrada both had the opportunity to present what Filipino fashion is all about to a group that included fashion buyers and members of the press.

John Herrera Wins the “Britain’s Top Designer” Competition

John Herrera might have won the London Emerging Designer (LED) competition last year with his Bioluminescence-themed collection, but that didn’t leave the designer resting on his laurels. John managed to bag another accolade by winning this year’s Britain’s Top Designer award. The competition that included editor-at-large of Hello Fashion Monthly Hilary Alexander in its judging panel saw the designer presenting his six-piece Agila collection.

John partnered with Epson Philippines to produce pieces cut from heavy fabrication that had a kaleidoscope image of the Philippine Eagle printed using the latter’s textile dye-sublimation transfer printers. The designer’s well-honed creative philosophy of using local inspirations in creating progressive designs is seen through tribal accessories topping off voluminous dresses with modern silhouettes.

Happy Andrada Presents Fashion Scout

Ladies garbed in loose-cut lightweight dresses seemed to float, rather than walk, for Happy Andrada’s tribal-influenced collection for Fashion Scout’s LFW showcase. Happy’s collection, presented with Kryolan and Toni & Guy, began with a clean palette of white and neutral shades of beige either embellished with a gamut of trims like crystals, fringes, and feathers. The show was closed with jackets in dense textiles on top of tulle dresses in a dark palette.

Fashion Scout is an international showcase for emerging fashion designers. The organization’s website lists Peter Pilotto, David Koma, and Phoebe English as its former participants. Shows organized by the team are often frequented by fashion media honchos like Suzy Menkes, Lucinda Chambers, and sartorial doyenne Anna Wintour. It won’t be surprising to see pieces from Happy’s collection landing the pages of international fashion magazines.

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Sir Philip Green skips Topshop Unique’s 1990's themed ode to the Gap Year

[ دوشنبه 2 اسفند 1395 ] [ 12:22 ] [ neda ] [ ]
Sir Philip Green failed to take up his usual spot on the Topshop Unique front row for a second season this afternoon at London Fashion Week. His absence comes as Green continues negotiations to solve the row over the pension deficit at BHS, the department store he sold for £1 to Dominic Chappell in 2015 and which was later wound down after entering administration.

But the show went on nevertheless at Topshop, the jewel in Arcadia's crown, where Sofia Richie (daughter of Lionel) and Sophia Stallone (daughter of Sylvester) were among the millennials on the front row - and Kate Moss's half-sister Lottie was on the catwalk.

Creative director Kate Phelan, who is also a contributing fashion director at Vogue, had mined the hedonistic music scene of the 90s, lacing the theme with the modern consciousness of a customer who lives through the medium of her phone.

"We always dig deep into British culture it's such a rich pot to play with," Phelan said after the show. The "dangerous, thrilling and exciting" take on a year abroad offered up by Danny Boyle's film The Beach jostled with memories of Manchester's Hacienda club and the notion that purchasing a sheepskin coat at Portobello is a rite of passage for London's coolest girls.

That's the dream Topshop has become so adept at selling; taking the most idiosyncratic aspects of Brit style and heritage and repackaging them for customers in the 40 countries worldwide where it has stores. By choosing Lily Donaldson and Adwoa Aboah - two very different but of-the-moment English models - to open and close the show respectively, Phelan expressed "an independence of spirit" which is core to the Topshop raison d'etre.

Another clever commercial nod came from the acknowledgment that unpredictable weather is making retailing tougher than ever. Topshop's answer? Go seasonless. "We were thinking about how the seasons are changing and you're not really sure if you're in summer or winter so it was about what girls want to wear now and what they'll always love," Phelan explained of the See-Now-Buy-Now elements of the show.

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5 Things to Know about Emerging Designer Chocheng

[ جمعه 29 بهمن 1395 ] [ 10:31 ] [ neda ] [ ]

5 Things to Know about Emerging Designer Chocheng

Anyone who frequents Madison Avenue might be familiar with the name Chocheng, as the designer has had a store on the tony shopping street since 2009. Now, the designer is making a bigger push on the fashion scene, by participating in NYFW. Save for a small event in 2010, last season was the designer’s first official fashion week debut. His clothes are far from trendy, but are actually timeless and classy; these vintage skirt suits and proper hats look like pieces that women in politics were born to wear.

For his second fashion week show, held earlier this week, Chocheng staged a presentation using live models with a vintage inspired set that was an ideal backdrop for even more tweet skirt suits, sweet button-festooned dresses and plenty of colorful houndstooth.

With a long, perfectly groomed hair that hangs down to the designer’s waist, plus a penchant for old Hollywood vibes, he has dressed celebrities including Nicole Kidman, former first lady Nancy Reagan and Janet Jackson. Here are five things to know about Chocheng, following his recent presentation.

He’s inspired by vintage style

The models at his NYFW presentation wore gingham blouses, structured coats, pillbox hats, and pencil skirts and posed alongside retro telephones and bottles of bourbon. “The inspiration is the 1940s film noir,” he said. “In particular, The Big Sleep with Lauren Bacall. She was wearing a pantsuit, so the pantsuit you see is the key piece of this season.” All garments in the presentation were handcrafted in London are made with 100 percent natural materials

He landed on Madison Avenue shortly after graduating from Parsons

The designer told us when he was growing up, he didn’t really know being a fashion designer was a job. “Then I saw a documentary film of Chanel, and that’s when I realized that making clothing is actually a job. So, I went to Parsons. I started doing custom clothing for friends. It went well.” So well, in fact, that Chocheng’s first store opened shortly after he graduated from school.

“I don’t work in my store all the time, but I’m very involved. We have daily emails so I know what’s selling,” he assured us.

Joan Rivers was a loyal customer

“When I was still doing custom design, I lived in a townhouse and used the ground floor as a shop. Joan Rivers lived nearby. She’s really fun and genuine. Her voice carries. My desk was close to the door, and I could always hear her walking by. She would just drop in. I think she’s a curious person and just wanted to see what was there. She’s very supportive and from time to time, she would buy little things like a pin.”

He collects perfume

He owns over 30 different bottles and keeps some of them—such as a rare Schiaparelli bottle—in safes around the world. Each bottle has a story behind it.

His grandmother was a costume designer in Hong Kong

Betty ‘Charnuis’ Clemo, his grandmother, also inspired him to start collecting perfumes, in a way. “There’s a Nina Ricci perfume that my grandmother used. She’s one of the designers that my grandmother has an exclusive license in Asia with. That brand built her career.”

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Hot mugshot guy Jeremy Meeks makes catwalk

[ چهارشنبه 27 بهمن 1395 ] [ 10:54 ] [ neda ] [ ]

Hot mugshot guy Jeremy Meeks makes catwalk debut at New York Fashion Week

America's hottest felon Jeremy Meeks was still walking the corridors of a Californian prison 12 months ago.

Now, the man who rose to fame as "hot felon" when his mugshot went viral has clearly traded up after making his debut on the New York Fashion Week catwalk, the Daily Mail reports.

Meeks swapped his orange prison duds and handcuffs for couture on Monday night as he was spotted strutting down the runway for designer Philipp Plein.

The felon-turned-model put the same piercing blue eyes and chiseled cheekbones that catapulted him to fame on show as he modeled in front of a star studded front row including the likes of Kylie Jenner, Paris Hilton and Madonna.

His tear drop face ink and various hand tattoos were on display on the runway at New York's Public Library as he modeled a black puffa jacket with a fur-lined hood and black trousers.

The 6ft1 hunk was pictured shirtless backstage showcasing his chest and stomach tattoos prior to the show.

Meeks shot to fame when his mugshot was posted on a Californian police department's Facebook page in 2014.

He was handed a 27-month jail term in 2015 after being charged with illegally possessing firearms and ammo, carrying a loaded firearm in public and criminal street gang activity.

But two years behind bars did little to dim Meeks' mugshot fame.

He was quickly snapped up and signed with talent agency White Cross Management before he was even jailed as millions swooned over his good looks.

Meeks, who is married with three children, was released from prison in March 2016.

He started sharing modelling shots on his Instagram back in June before lying low just after Christmas.

Meeks popped up again on Sunday in New York when he posted a photo of himself hugging Carine Roitfeld - the former editor-in-chief of Vogue Paris.

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Beyond the bedroom

[ سه شنبه 19 بهمن 1395 ] [ 6:54 ] [ neda ] [ ]

Beyond the bedroom: why La Perla creative director Julia Haart heralds a new direction for lingerie brand

As Valentine’s Day rolls around again, thoughts turn to love, romance – and lingerie. Some like the sauce of brands like Agent Provocateur, but for most, it’s a brand such as Italian lingerie and underwear label La Perla that springs to mind for special occasions.

Surprisingly, however, the latest advertising campaign for La Perla shot by American photographer Steven Klein doesn’t show a model draped across a bed clad in wispy bits of lace and silk, but a bold image of Kendall Jenner wearing a corset jacket – a stylish garment that takes the wearer from boardroom to evening. It is the cornerstone of new creative director Julia Haart’s debut spring/summer 2017 collection for the luxury lingerie brand. “We can be feminine and feminist,” says Haart. The point is nailed in the same campaign by Liu Wen modelling a printed dress slashed to the thigh and posed with a backdrop of flames – a clear reference to the 1960s bra-burning rallying cry of feminist liberation.

Julia Haart hasn’t had a conventional career trajectory. “I came from nowhere and nobody told me what I couldn’t do, and that was extremely liberating,” says Haart, between fittings for her autumn/winter 2017 collection at La Perla’s headquarters in Bologna. “With a traditional design education you take certain things as given. I took nothing as given and have no limitations to my imagination.”

Haart’s career spans school teacher to designing shoes. Curiously, a material developed by Nasa and incorporated into her range of shoes brought Haart to the attention of La Perla’s owner, Silvio Scaglia, chairman of Pacific Global Management Group. He gave a pair of her shoes to his daughter Chiara Scaglia, who runs the lingerie brand’s Asia-Pacific business, to test. A few months later in May 2015, Haart was hired as a design consultant to develop accessories. She was subsequently appointed creative director when the owners decided La Perla should take a broader lifestyle direction. It was a leap of faith by Scaglia – major brands don’t normally appoint creative directors who have no traditional training. Nevertheless, Haart thinks outside the box and it was the concept of a high-heeled shoe collection, designed ergonomically for comfort using innovative technology (that she has patented) with an insole containing cooling anti-shock gel – developed by Nasa to insulate its space stations – that sealed her appointment. Haart, who is petite with size 34 feet, says the shoes can be worn 11 hours a day.

Scaglia is hoping Haart can direct the lingerie house beyond underwear and beachwear into a full fashion brand with tailoring, accessories and hosiery as well.

Haart took over last July from Brazilian Pedro Lourenco, who is credited with taking the first steps in developing the new lifestyle vision for La Perla. The timing meant she only had eight weeks to produce her debut collection, just as the factory was about to close for the annual summer holidays. Averaging four hours’ sleep a night since her appointment, Haart says it was a miracle the first collection came out, and praised the factory workers who had postponed their “sacrosanct” holidays to make it happen.

Haart is a free-thinking designer: “I don’t want to say to women this beachwear can only be worn on the beach and loungewear around the house. You can wear beachwear to a party in the city at the weekend if you wish. A woman can buy a corset top from lingerie and pair it with a high-waist pant that has the same lace as a trim. It is about melding things together, there is no separation of inner and outerwear.” It is a concept neatly highlighted by fashion’s recent rush into luxury silk pyjamas for partywear – something La Perla is also doing.

Haart’s vision for La Perla includes fitted cotton and silk shirts (with corsetry detailing), lace-detailed trousers, waistcoats and evening gowns, printed dresses and plenty of lacy lingerie. She is taking a holistic approach to designing all the ranges at La Perla – “there is a flow and connection between the various lines” – so the expertise learned from corsetry is applied to corseted jackets and tops.

Jackets, dresses and shirts don’t just come in dress sizes, they incorporate built-in bra cups, which means they are also measured in cup size. The heritage of exquisite laces, silks and embroideries filters through into tops and trims, but Haart has added stretch thread to the lace for comfort. Lingerie is still the heart of the business and is clearly at the forefront of her creativity.

Haart is preparing for a catwalk show for La Perla in New York this month on the first day of fashion week. Details are under wraps.

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